Beautiful professional photos from day of wedding were taken by the talented Katie Whitcomb. See her work here: Notre Dame Wedding Photographer
Custom Silk Crepe Wedding Gown
I had to check my calendar to confirm it, but it is true––it has already been two years since Shannon contacted me about the possibility of creating her own wedding gown. After countless fittings there was nothing that felt perfect. As someone who rarely wears dresses, she was already out of place in a world of glitter, sequins, and lace. Her vision was nothing like a fairy-tale ball gown and certainly nothing corseted or form-fitting. But like every bride, Shannon still wanted to be elegant and effortless, beautiful, and very much herself.
When she called me, she had tried on many dresses and knew exactly what she didn’t want. And that is always helpful. She also had a better idea of the details involved in choosing a dress. My job was not complicated: How could we navigate the ‘no-go dresses’ and steer her toward ‘the one’?
Step one was to start with Shannon’s figure. A person’s style always references her body-type as much as her personality. Taking measurements helps guide the process toward success from the start. Shannon’s slim, athletic build happened to pair well with her drama-free sense of style, but often brides have images of dresses that would not bring out their best qualities. Although Shannon lived in Oregon, we began the process with her measurements and completed much of the work remotely. She visited South Bend a few times for fittings while seeing family, but much of the design process relied on sending her mock-ups by mail and working through feedback together. (I have since improved on the custom dress process. I created a video and worksheet for clients to watch/fill out before starting the process: How to Take Measurements for a Custom Dress
The Bride’s Vision
Shannon envisioned a gown with a square neckline, thin straps, an open back, and a relaxed A-line silhouette—something that wouldn’t cling, but instead fall naturally around her. We selected a 100% silk crepe, which is a luxurious fabric that has a matte exterior and fluid movement. Instead of using a typical polyester lining, I used a white lyocell, which gave the dress breathability and structure without sacrificing comfort. The added weight helped the gown maintain its shape while still moving beautifully with Shannon.
Beautiful floral bouquets from Country Florist
Fitting Challenges & Couture Solutions
At our first fitting, I created a custom moulage (a perfectly fitted body block), and while I was pleased with the fit, adapting the structure with her design presented challenges. Dresses with low backs and minimal support—especially with a square neckline—require incredibly precise internal structuring. Through trial and error, and of course multiple mock-ups, I realized the gown actually needed an inner corset to support the bust and maintain clean lines across the neckline. Thankfully, Shannon didn’t panic at the sound of “corset” and understood the architectural necessity for this feature.
We studied countless photos of square-neck gowns—on models and real brides—to ensure Shannon’s straps wouldn’t slip and her neckline would remain retain its firm line between her shoulders. Many commercial gowns look great while pinned for fittings, but often they fail to hold up when real brides move around in them. This was not an option for Shannon’s gown.
Redesigning for Her Style
When Shannon returned to town a month before her wedding (for a Notre Dame football game), I had her silk crepe gown ready. It fit beautifully—but something was off. Shannon, whom I’ve known since childhood, is sporty, relaxed, and confident, but the dress she had on during this visit didn’t reflect that.
After speaking with a trusted friend and stylist in the bridal industry—and reviewing how luxury designers structure their gowns—I decided to redesign the entire bodice. I kept the original skirt but reworked the torso with new seamlines and darts. The changes secured the neckline and created a more structured and polished silhouette. This was a dress in good shape, just like Shannon!
We also shortened the train by over a foot. Silk crepe doesn’t behave like stiffer fabrics—it tends to bunch up and trail closely behind. The shorter train looked lighter, cleaner, and was more practical for Shannon.
Final Touches
To emphasize her waist, we added a thin satin sash and ran silk-covered buttons down the back of the bodice all the way to the train’s end. These small, thoughtful details gave the gown just the right amount of bridal elegance.
Shannon was a joy to work with. The best partnerships rely on patience and clear feedback, but also trust throughout the process that the visions one has of a dress can be even better when they don’t work against reality. Designing her dress was an honor, and the result was a custom silk wedding gown that reflected not only her beauty, but her spirit.
Watch the silk move in the video here:
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